Shouting into the Storm Rantings, ramblings, observations and musings from the insipid to the sublime


Doolin - Day 5

Sunday, May 14, 2006 :::
 
Our last night in Killarney was solid, if unspectacular. The local soccer team won the league championship, so we got to watch real soccer nuts celebrate like lunatics. Lots of drunken singing and dancing in the streets. We had a pint at the pub our driver/guide recommended(Buckley's) and it was everything we could hope for. Five guys sitting on a couch playing traditional Irish folk music while I was nursing my pint. We also met a group of middle aged women on a bus tour. As they walked in, the lead hen, wearing what Marissa called "Standard American Tourist Pink", was squaking away. I announced that I'd bet any amount of money that she was at least an East Coaster, and probably from NY or NJ. With a little small talk, and retelling of some of the Sick Crow Joke, I discover I was right. She's in Syracuse, but grew up in northern NJ.

One downside was that Saturday night in Killarney is like Saturday night everywhere. Tons and tons of drunk young folk out for an evening of drinking and whoring. And the girls were more than willing to dress the part of the whores, so all was in order with the universe.

We also came to the conclusion we didn't want to go to Galway. Galway looks like a charming city and all that, but it is a city. Two tour books describe the city as potential automotive gridlock. No thanks. We decided to call the travel company and see what they could do. Of course, we forgot it is Sunday.

Regardless, off we went to Doolin by way of the Cliffs of Moher (I can't find a good link, sorry). Another of those "Words can not describe it" places. Not only is it grgeous, but it is intimidating. Giant cliffs climbing out of the rugged Atlantic coast. Whitecaps crashing against the rocks below while gulls cry in the wind. The pictures don't really let you feel the open space, or the wildness of it. I can imagine the Vikings coming along and either thinking "Let's find someplace else" or, knowing the Vikings, "Looks like an interesting challenge. Let's go."

Two more notes on the Cliffs. Yesterday on the Ring of Kerry, I can't imagine doing it in bad weather. You really need clear, sunny skies for it. Here, it's been foggy and drizzling/raining all day. While the views aren't as good, I think the grey weather adds to the mystery of the place. It's a rugged area, and rugged weather accentuates that. And one small disappointment - they are in the process of building a real visitor's center, and doing some work on the trails along the cliffs. We weren't able to get to several of the key vantage points because they are closed for the year. Oh well, we'll just have to come back.

We found Doolin with little trouble, by our standard. We're checked in for the night, and already booked for a 2nd night. The plan is to grab dinner and spend the night in the pubs. Doolin is known for it's excellent traditional live music. I plan on enjoying it to the fullest. Tomorrow we're going to explore the Burren area (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Burren). Maybe hit the Aran Islands if the weather is OK. If not, car hop around and hit the old castles and ruins. There are several small villages in the area, which will make for great tea and lunch breaks.

Much better than holding our nose and dealing with Galway. Maybe next trip.

::: posted by Chris at 11:45 AM


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